Winter Vacation in Germany

While we were in Berlin, we attended the Shabbat service at the Neue Synagogue. When we arrived at the Neue Synagogue, we were questioned by a Berlin police officer in the foyer as to the purpose of our visit. I showed the officer my passport and explained that we were there for the Shabbat service. We then through a security process that was identical to that performed at the airport. The officer was professional and courteous. It was gratifying to see that protection was being provided for the synagogue but it was a sad reminder that anti-semitism still exists in Germany and the rest of the world.

The service was not in the main synagogue but in a small chapel on the fourth floor. It was a Reform service. Normally, the service would have been performed by Rabbi Gesa Ederberg who is the only female Rabbi in Berlin, but this Friday the service was performed by a visiting cantor who was there for a wedding. The sermon was given by Rabbi Ederberg who gave us a warm welcome in flawless English when we arrived but the sermon was in German so I can't comment on its content or quality. The service was simple, warm and familiar – a bit of home in a foreign country. The Neue Synagogue is located in what used to be the Jewish Quarter in Berlin. It is a large, elegant structure with a large dome that distinguishes it from the rest of the buildings around it. If you are ever in Berlin, you should visit the Neue Synagogue which is primarily a museum – be sure to go up to the dome for a view of the city.

The Jewish Community (Jüdische Gemeinde) is growing in Berlin but there is a serious but what I find as a slightly humorous debate between the various Jewish communities as to who is “the real Jew”. This debate has been generated by the immigration of a number of Orthodox Jews from the East, especially from Russia, who conflict with the more liberal German Jews. Does this sound familiar? In a sense, this is as much about money as it is about theology since the German government provides financial support for the legal representative of each faith community – Jewish or Christian. Unlike the U.S., Germany does not have separation of church and state. Everyone in Germany pays a church tax which is then divided among the various churches and synagogues – I'm not sure if this includes the Muslim community or not. If a German citizen does not want to pay this church tax, then he or she must file a petition with the state for an exemption. The petition basically states that the person is not a member of a faith community and should not be forced to financially support other peoples' religious institutions by the state. It is ironic that Germany where there is no separation of church and states is much less religious and much more secular than the U.S. which has separation of church and state. Most Germans are what I would call “cultural Christians”; they only go to church on Christmas - much like “cultural Jews” who only go to the synagogue on the High Holy Days.

I always enjoy being in Germany. I like the people, the food and the cultural. Berlin is one of the the great cities of Europe. It is considered one of the best cities for young people in Europe along with Barcelona and Prague. It is the least expensive of all the major cities in Europe where apartments are still affordable for students, artists and young professionals. It is a vibrant, cosmopolitan city with numerous cultural and artistic activities. In some sections of Berlin, it is hard to tell that you are in Germany because of the incredible ethnic diversity. It reminds me in many ways of the cultural and ethnic diversity of New York but with its own unique Berlin ambience. I could easily live there. Fortunately, we have friends and family who live in Berlin so we have additional incentives for visiting Berlin frequently.

After Berlin, we drove back to Frankfurt and picked up some friends who flew in from Colorado and went down to the Black Forest in southwest Germany – not far from Strassburg. It was unseasonably warm in German while we were there and it rained, rather than snowed while we were in the Black Forest. This turned out well. We needed some down time and it was great hanging out in the sauna, getting a massage and lounging around the indoor pool. I did manage to take some short hikes through the forest and plan to come back for some longer back packing treks some day. I also walked into Freudenstädt, the closest town. It is a beautiful, small town nestles in the mountains of the Black Forest. It was friendly with very good restaurants. The Hotel where we stayed, the Langenwaldsee, was delightful and again the food was excellent. There was even a small “lake” where we could take a bone-chilling cold plunge after the sauna. The weather may have been unseasonably warm but the lake wasn't – brrrrrr. It was the perfect place to relax and hanging out with good friends.

We are now back in Ifrane - good to be home. It turns out that there is no job for me in the Language Center this semester. There are only enough students to support classes for the full time staff so I will either find another job or enjoy a semester of hiking, self-directed study, being a house-husband and individual reflection. In other words, I will hang out and have some fun. It's good either way.