In Gastein!

In Gastein:

We arrived in Bad Hofgastein late yesterday afternoon – Bad Hofgastein is located about an hour south of Salzburg in the Gastein valley.  The train ride from Frankfurt to Gastein is about 7 hours.  We took the direct train so we would not have to transfer in Munich.  It turned out that the direct train is direct but stops at every wide spot in the road from Frankfurt to Gastein.  Nevertheless, the train ride was pleasant even though the train was very full.  We had reserved seats so we did not have to stand like many others.  We did take a leisurely lunch in the dining car that was quiet and not crowded.  Doris and I shared a vegetable curry – it was good, especially for travel food, but not excellent as most of the other food that I have eaten in Germany. 

After arriving in Bad Hofgastein, we took the bus into town and got off in the village

Zentrum or center.  It’s a short walk to the apartment from there – everything is a short walk in Bad Hofgastein – and we wanted to stretch out legs and enjoy such a beautiful day after being on the train all day.  We dropped off our bags at the apartment and then walked back into town to the Billa, a local grocery store, where we bought some groceries for the week plus some fresh fruit and vegetables – all locally grown and delicious.  This is strawberry and cherry season in Gastein so we were sure to include then in our fruit selection.  Doris also wanted a small, very bitter red berry - Johannesbeere - which is, dispute it’s sharp, sour taste, addicting.  Back at the apartment we unpacked and then went out to dinner. 

We went to the Kraut and Rüben (cabbage and roots), our favorite vegetarian restaurant.  We took out computer since the Kraut and Rueben has free wi-fi since the apartment does not have wi-fi.  It turns out that all of downtown Bad Hofgastein is an internet “hot spot” with free wi-fi access.   We checked our email and found, to our delight, several emails from our friends which we answered.  Dinner was simple.  Doris had a cream of mushroom soup which was made form a local mushroom, pfifferling  - quite  delicious – which is now in season.  I had a mixed salad and we shared some garlic bread – a simple, but incredibly delicious, meal.  The staff there is extraordinarily friendly and helpful. 

After dinner, we took a long meandering stroll through the town.  We popped into the local Catholic Church.  This was Doris’ father’s favorite church.  It is not huge but is absolutely gorgeous.  Huge pillars support stone arches that sore upward to the heavens.  The church itself is full of ornately carved wood with bright painted statutes.  The stone floor has been worn from centuries of worship so it is rough and uneven.  We continued or wanderings and stopped at a local pastry shop for desert.  We share a Heidelebeer strudel – it’s to die for.  Baked with no sugar, it allows the tart sweetness of the berry to flavor the strudel.  The only sugar is a light dusting of powdered sugar that is added just before it is served which adds just a touch of additional sweetness to the strudel but it would be perfect without it.  We finally completed our stroll by walking through the residential area of the town where we admired the “urban gardens” full of flowers, fruit trees and vegetables.  This took us across the bridge and along the river back to our apartment.  We ended the night by watching the news on Al Jazeera (English version).  I first watch Al Jazeera in Ghana. I was amazed at how good it was.  It was very balanced and professional in its presentation.  Its reporters are from diverse ethnic backgrounds and I was surprised at the number of women reporters, anchors, commentators, etc. It does give a different perspective from the American news services, especially Fox News.  After the news, we went to bed and slept this incredibly long, deep sleep.  The apartment is on the second floor and has a covered balcony that runs the length of the apartment.  The wall adjacent to the balcony is almost all glass so at night we open the windows and doors and let the fresh alpine air lull us into deep slumber.  We are looking forward to our two weeks here – we can sleep, eat, hike and no schedule other than our own. 

This morning I walked into town for Brötchen (rolls) and a newspaper for Doris.  This is out usual routine in Gastein.  Doris usually likes to sleep on later than I do and I like to get out and enjoy the early morning air.  The walk to town from the apartment is quite lovely.  There is this beautiful park between the apartment and the town.  It is unusually large for such a “village”.  It is like an alpine meadow full of wild flowers and trees.  There is a pond near the apartment, a river to the left, three fountains and a formal garden near the town side.  One fountain has five jets of water that shoot up into the air.  There is one central jet that shoots straight up. The other four jets also shoot straight up into the air but from a rotating nozzle that creates this very dynamic, interlocking water sculpture in the air.  The water then falls into an oval pond with an almost asymmetrical rhythm.  It is quite enchanting. 

The park is nestled between two mountain ranges – the Gastein valley here is probably less than a half of a mile wide.  I am surrounded wherever I walk with the most beautiful views. It was cool enough this morning to wear a sweater for the walk into town – eat your heart out Tallahassee.

Doris and I have just finished our breakfast out on the balcony.  We eat all of our meals here unless we go out.  There are no bad views from the balcony  - no matter where you sit, you can see the mountains and the river that flows through the valley.

Doris has finished her newspaper and we are off to whatever adventures the day may bring.

Doris and I went for a hike along the Hohen Weg (imagine an umlaut over the o).  We walked up through the village, past the church and cemetery about a third of the way up the mountain.  We then walked for 2 ½ hours through mountain farms, meadows and woods until we reached Bad Gastein.  Bad Gastein is the last and highest town in the Gastein valley.  Bad Hofgastein is lower and the there is Dorfgastein, etc.  Bad Gastein is an old spa town where the Kaiser Wilhelm would vacation and do his spa thing.  Bad Gastein is built on terraces carved into the stone face of the mountain and as you walked along the Hohen Weg, it appears from the distance to be a some magical city out of an ancient fairy tale suspended in the sky.  We walked down through Bad Gastein to the hiking trail along the Achen River – it is an 1 ½ hour walk to Bad Hofgastein.  We stopped at the Billa and bought some Pfifferling mushrooms and had a simple supper of mushroons sautéed in olive oil with onions and garlic with a touch of pepper for seasoning, a green salad with tomatoes and homemade dressing (Doris) and fresh local strawberries (so sweet I thought Doris had sprinkled them with sugar).  Then a short walk into town for wi-fi access, email check and a little blogging.

A big thanks to everyone who has commented.  As beautiful as it is here, I miss family and friends.  Being able to stay in touch is great.  Love you all -- Mike!