While we were in Berlin, we attended
the Shabbat service at the Neue Synagogue. When we arrived at the
Neue Synagogue, we were questioned by a Berlin police officer in the
foyer as to the purpose of our visit. I showed the officer my
passport and explained that we were there for the Shabbat service.
We then through a security process that was identical to that
performed at the airport. The officer was professional and
courteous. It was gratifying to see that protection was being
provided for the synagogue but it was a sad reminder that
anti-semitism still exists in Germany and the rest of the world.
The service was not in the main
synagogue but in a small chapel on the fourth floor. It was a Reform
service. Normally, the service would have been performed by Rabbi
Gesa Ederberg who is the only female Rabbi in Berlin, but this Friday
the service was performed by a visiting cantor who was there for a
wedding. The sermon was given by Rabbi Ederberg who gave us a warm
welcome in flawless English when we arrived but the sermon was in
German so I can't comment on its content or quality. The service was
simple, warm and familiar – a bit of home in a foreign country.
The Neue Synagogue is located in what used to be the Jewish Quarter
in Berlin. It is a large, elegant structure with a large dome that
distinguishes it from the rest of the buildings around it. If you
are ever in Berlin, you should visit the Neue Synagogue which is
primarily a museum – be sure to go up to the dome for a view of the
city.
The Jewish Community (Jüdische
Gemeinde) is growing in Berlin but there is a serious but what I find
as a slightly humorous debate between the various Jewish communities
as to who is “the real Jew”. This debate has been generated by
the immigration of a number of Orthodox Jews from the East,
especially from Russia, who conflict with the more liberal German
Jews. Does this sound familiar? In a sense, this is as much about
money as it is about theology since the German government provides
financial support for the legal representative of each faith
community – Jewish or Christian. Unlike the U.S., Germany does not
have separation of church and state. Everyone in Germany pays a
church tax which is then divided among the various churches and
synagogues – I'm not sure if this includes the Muslim community or
not. If a German citizen does not want to pay this church tax, then
he or she must file a petition with the state for an exemption. The
petition basically states that the person is not a member of a faith
community and should not be forced to financially support other
peoples' religious institutions by the state. It is ironic that
Germany where there is no separation of church and states is much
less religious and much more secular than the U.S. which has
separation of church and state. Most Germans are what I would call
“cultural Christians”; they only go to church on Christmas - much
like “cultural Jews” who only go to the synagogue on the High
Holy Days.
I always enjoy being in Germany. I
like the people, the food and the cultural. Berlin is one of the the
great cities of Europe. It is considered one of the best cities for
young people in Europe along with Barcelona and Prague. It is the
least expensive of all the major cities in Europe where apartments
are still affordable for students, artists and young professionals.
It is a vibrant, cosmopolitan city with numerous cultural and
artistic activities. In some sections of Berlin, it is hard to tell
that you are in Germany because of the incredible ethnic diversity.
It reminds me in many ways of the cultural and ethnic diversity of
New York but with its own unique Berlin ambience. I could easily live
there. Fortunately, we have friends and family who live in Berlin so
we have additional incentives for visiting Berlin frequently.
After Berlin, we drove back to
Frankfurt and picked up some friends who flew in from Colorado and
went down to the Black Forest in southwest Germany – not far from
Strassburg. It was unseasonably warm in German while we were there
and it rained, rather than snowed while we were in the Black Forest.
This turned out well. We needed some down time and it was great
hanging out in the sauna, getting a massage and lounging around the
indoor pool. I did manage to take some short hikes through the forest
and plan to come back for some longer back packing treks some day. I
also walked into Freudenstädt, the closest town. It is a beautiful,
small town nestles in the mountains of the Black Forest. It was
friendly with very good restaurants. The Hotel where we stayed, the
Langenwaldsee, was delightful and again the food was excellent. There
was even a small “lake” where we could take a bone-chilling cold
plunge after the sauna. The weather may have been unseasonably warm
but the lake wasn't – brrrrrr. It was the perfect place to relax
and hanging out with good friends.
We are now back in Ifrane - good to be
home. It turns out that there is no job for me in the Language
Center this semester. There are only enough students to support
classes for the full time staff so I will either find another job or
enjoy a semester of hiking, self-directed study, being a
house-husband and individual reflection. In other words, I will hang
out and have some fun. It's good either way.
